Breakfast at the hotel was another vaguely 1980’s experience. We were transported back to the original “Continental” breakfast of ham, cured meat, cheese slices (one kind), cereal, fruit (whole), yogurt, croissants and bread. Everything was fresh, the bread and croissants still warm and totally delicious.

We spent the morning “at leisure” in Rocamadour. The weather wasn’t very friendly - thunder in the area and a few seriously heavy showers. Also, being France on a Monday morning, everything opened late (or not al all). Having said that it’s a fascinating little village on 3 levels. We were on the middle and mainly commercial level. Rocamadour is a place of pilgrimage and those so inclined can climb the 216 steps to the upper level (on their knees if seeking the total experience). For “ye of little faith” there’s a lift for a very worthwhile €3. We decided to leave this for a dryer day and went to buy me a better waterproof coat than the one I had with me. (We never made it. On our return each day, either the weather was too wet or there wasn’t enough time before dinner. We successfully managed our disappointment).

The lower level is residential and any hill you walk down you have to walk back up. We didn’t!

At around 12:30 we set off for the Gouffe-de-Padirac (Gouffe: Chasm not Caves), about 40 minutes away. It is spectacular. It involves negotiating steps and staircases - hundreds of them. After walking down a few hundred, we discovered they’d tucked lifts away in hidden alcoves (no signage - it’s France) and made use of these for the return journey. We still had to climb maybe a hundred steps to reach the way out.

Photography has to be flash-free (something geological apparently) but I did my best!

The weather had brightened quite a bit so we sought out their café. They didn’t allow vaping on the terrace so we were obliged to sit in the garden area, seats and tables still wet from rain. Then something totally un-French happened. A young waitress dashed out with squeegee in hand and cleared water from the table and seats. Not happy, she came back with a cloth. Still not happy she came back with kitchen roll. Then she took our order and returned, smiling, with my beer and Margaret’s peach tea. One of the rare occasions when tipping is actually justified.

Back at the hotel for around 17:00 we relaxed ready for another delicious dinner.